Friday prayers in Freetown

We decided to go down to Freetown central mosque today to see a local Friday prayer. It is a huge edifice downtown, in the main shopping district. Everyone knows where it is regardless of their religion. It is sturdy and towers high into the skyline, but is rather sparse in its completion. It looked like it once had a huge amount of money poured into it, but funding perhaps ran dry. Inside the structure rises high with lofty columns into a dome, with two balconies up above. The courtyard outside is vast as is the main prayer space inside, both of which are designed to be and also to appear spacious, something that many mosques somehow don't manage to pull off.

However, the interior was all white, laid on the floor were cane mats, and the dome on the outside was black. I don't think this was a tribute to any kind of simplicity or spartanism, but rather it was a step in the slow journey to completion. The steps leading into the courtyard from the street had suddenly been filled with men selling prayer beads, and young children and invalids with plastic bowls begging. We had come the previous day in the apocalyptic downpour to find the area abandoned and the courtyard awash with inch-deep puddles.

The Imam gave the khutba (the sermon) in a mix of Arabic, English and the local creole, as the congregation listened attentively. Although we looked foreign, there was little staring or pointing, as often happens abroad, everyone just went about their business of praying. Although the numbers were huge, possibly well over a thousand, perhaps two, moving about, entering and leaving did not feel crowded or jostled.

Except for the beggars. Who had obviously spotted and smelt our foreigness and thrust themselves in front of us. One young child followed us for about an hour, even waiting outside the cafe where we had lunch. They certainly were persistent.

My time at the internet cafe is up - more soon!